Burma's Mergui Archipelago

In the early 1990s, several dive operators out of Phuket, looking for new diving frontiers in the Andaman Sea, began exploring an area 90 nautical miles northwest of the Similan Islands that came to be known as the Burma Banks. In a very short time, the Banks became recognised as the place for serious divers to observe sharks close-up and personal - something lacking in Thailand.

Even though the Banks lie in international waters, by the middle of the decade, the Myanmar (Burmese) authorities became aware and concerned about the activity off their coastline and asked the dive operators to seek official permission from the government to dive there. After three years of negotiations, in 1997 consent was officially given to not only visit the now famous Burma Banks, but also the islands in Myanmar's inshore waters. As we approach the millennium, divers have been given the opportunity to explore one of the last pristine environments on earth, the Mergui Archipelago.

Historically, the Archipelago had been an important area for trade between the east and the west. But after World War Two with the major political changes that took place in Burma and rest of Southeast Asia, the Archipelago fell into obscurity, resulting in over 50 years of very little human activity. With over 800 islands, some of the them the size of Singapore and most of them completely uninhabited, the area has unlimited potential as a playground for divers, yachties, naturalists, and other pleasure seekers. Steps have already been taken to preserve the islands, and the government there seems to be very interested in developing the area in a positive way.

Inshore, the islands are lush with vegetation and primary jungle, and contain some of the last jungle cats and other large mammals to be found in Southeast Asia. Here the water is not very clear, thus of little interest to divers. Offshore, the islands are smaller and drier and lie in deep enough water to afford good visibility. Here the corals, sea fans, and fish life are similar to that found in Thailand, but with one major difference; there is an abundance of sharks. This makes the diving more exciting than in the waters further south, and is attracting divers looking to dive with these awesome creatures.

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The Burma Banks, located in the southwestern part of the Archipelago, are a series of sea mounts which rise up from over 300 meters to just below the surface. Completely underwater, depths average between 15-22 meters on the flat areas on top, dropping off slowly on the edges. Diving here requires careful planning as the currents are often strong and unpredictable. Guided drift dives are the norm, usually starting on the edge of the banks in 35 meters of water where divers stare out in the blue looking for large silver tip sharks. Commonly growing to over two meters in length, these sharks are full-bodied, fascinating animals easily identified by the white trailing edges on their pectoral fins and caudal, or tail fins. Normally quite curious, but not aggressive, these sharks will closely approach the diver making for incredible photo opportunities. Other types of sharks are seen at the banks, including free-swimming nurse sharks, black tips, and the occasional grey reef, but the silver tips remain the main allure.

The interesting islands to dive are of two types. Some of the islands like North and South Twin look like the Similan Islands above and below the surface. Lush soft corals, large sea fans, huge boulders, and very clear water make the diving interesting for very experienced divers as well as for intermediate level divers. Like in Thailand, the best diving is at the tips of the islands and on underwater pinnacles located several hundred meters from shore.

Other islands such as Western Rocky and Black Rock, rise straight out of the sea and plunge almost straight down. Vegetation is sparse and beaches are rare or non-existent. These dive sites feature caves going through the islands, vertical walls, very interesting rocky outcroppings and deep canyons. Some of the caves are full of lobsters and are popular places for very large nurse sharks - five meters or longer - to make their home. The sharks one sees inshore at the islands are different from the sharks at the banks. Grey reef sharks, powerful and beautiful and a little bit scary, are seen often. Known to be aggressive in some waters around the world, in Burma they are shy and stay for the most part just on the edge of visibility. However, if the diver pays attention, he can often be rewarded with a close encounter, a thrilling experience.

Over seven species of sharks have been reported on a single dive in Burma, including bull sharks, nurse sharks, mako sharks, and one of the most beautiful sharks I've ever seen, the spinner shark: If you're Australian, you'd call it a black whaler. These ivory coloured sharks, with pointy sleek snouts, grow to at least two meters, and are completely devoid of markings except for a small black dot on their caudal fin. Fast swimmers, they almost appear hyperactive as they come out of nowhere and approach divers very closely. This behaviour doesn't feel aggressive, and they are not displaying, yet it is an interesting emotion to have a shark swim straight at you very quickly and swerve away at the last minute!

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The Mergui Archipelago is only just being explored, and many new dive sites will undoubtedly be discovered over the next few years. It's an exciting time for those of us who love the Andaman Sea as the possibilities are virtually unlimited. Although the type of diving you find there is not for everyone, those divers looking for close shark encounters and the thrill of diving in strong currents will be in heaven.

Source: ©Siam Dive n' Sail

The first wave of divers report encountering beautiful coral gardens, with visibility exceeding 30 meters, lots of sharks, rays, and large schools of pelagic fish. With a colorful history of maritime trade and piracy, the waters surrounding these forgotten islands are believed to conceal hundreds of shipwrecks and other valuable historical artifacts.  You'll be hearing a lot more about Mergui in the next few years.

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