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 Krabi
province has scenic limestone karst formations near the coast, similar to those
in Phang-nga Province, near Krabi town you can see Bird, Cat and Mouse Islands,
named for their shapes. Until fairly recently the waters surrounding Krabi were
the favorite hide-out for Asian pirates who sought refuge in the myriad of islands
and sea caves. Today, Krabi has become an alternative holiday base to Phuket.
What has normally been a 2 or 3 day excursion from Phuket is rapidly becoming
a popular alternate travel destination on it’s own. It is not easy to reach
Krabi, which may actually enhance its charms to some, but it is the towering limestone
cliffs, unsullied beaches and the numerous nearby scenic waterfalls and rainforest
walks that are drawing an increasing number of visitors. Tourism in the Krabi
area is in its infancy, which helps lend a sense of adventure to traveling here.
The pace is noticeably slower and the local people are more friendly and less
jaded than in Phuket. Krabi is only a 2½ hour scenic drive by car through Phang-nga
province from Phuket.
As you make your way south from the
town of Phang-nga among the towering limestone hills, rice paddies, palm oil,
and rubber plantations, watch for signs directing you to the Than Bokkharani National
Park as you near the town of Ao Leuk. Established as a park in 1991, it plays
host to nine caves, a botanical garden and lush green mountains. The park is famous
for the amazing Bokkarani Waterfall where emerald green water flows out of a narrow
cave in a tall cliff into a large pool, which in turn overflows steadily into
a wide stream, itself dividing into many smaller streams in several stages. At
each stage there is a pool and little waterfall. A very enchanting place you will
not want to miss. The best time to visit is after the monsoons stop in late November,
as the water levels go down the clarity of the water improves to a luminous glowing
green. Take a 10-minute boat ride to visit the Tam Hua Kalok (Skull) Cave where
among the beautiful stalactite formations are found impressive prehistoric wall
paintings of human and animal figures, and geometric designs. Krabi
town is still a scenic little back-water town of with a population of 15,000.
What it lacks in size it more than makes up for in the number of great places
to eat. Of course, seafood is the specialty. The night market in Krabi, with its
great seafood at low prices and a host of Thai dessert venders, may be the best
one in southern Thailand. Across the river from town are extensive mangrove forests
that draw birdwatchers from all over the world. You may want to hire a longtail
boat to explore some of the mangrove canals or visit the Kanab Nam limestone twin
peaks with its huge cave hidden inside. Using Krabi as a central base there are
dozens of interesting places to visit.
(See
our photos of Krabi
and another complete Guide to Krabi
and Koh
Lanta)
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An increasing number of visitors are arranging
trekking tours into the beautiful mountains of Khao Phanom Bencha National Park,
which rise to an elevation of 1,350 m (4430 Feet). This remote virgin rainforest
offers a thriving habitat to a number of otherwise endangered species including:
clouded leopards, black panthers, Asiatic black bears, deer, leaf monkeys, gibbons,
civets, and various tropical birds. Taking a hike up to the accessible Hoey Dto
Waterfall for a plunge is a rewarding half-day trip from town.  The
nearby Wat Tham Sua (Tiger Cave) is one of southern Thailand’s most famous
forest wats. The main wihaan is built into a long, shallow limestone cave, on
either side of which dozens of monastic cells are built into the various cliffs
and caves. The best part of the temple grounds can be found in a little valley
behind the ridge where the bot is located. Follow the path past the main wat buildings,
through a little village until you come to some stairs on the left. It is steep
climb on the 305m (1000 ft) staircase to see Buddha’s footprint on the top
of a ridge, and a stunning view of the area.
Nineteen km
west of Krabi, on Laem Pho, is the so-called Shell Fossil Cemetery, a shell ‘graveyard’
where 75 million year old shell fossils have formed giant slabs jutting into the
sea. To get there from the Krabi waterfront, ask for Su-Saan Hawy. The
Ao Nang area is a beautiful series of bays and idyllic beaches where limestone
cliffs and caves drop right into the sea. The water is quite clear and there are
some coral reefs in the shallows. The longest beach is along Ao Nang reached by
road from Krabi. Ao Nang is the longest beach and is where most visitors choose
to stay. It is located15 km (9 miles) by bus from Krabi town, and has a varied
choice of lodging, from inexpensive bungalows to top line hotel resorts. Many
people stay in Ao Nang take a longtail boat to visit the more isolated nearby
beaches. Phai Phlong beach is a peaceful palm studded cove that can be reach by
a short boat ride. As of now there are no accommodations here, but there are rumors
that they will be built shortly. Railae and Phra Nang beaches are 3 km (2miles)
away. These two have been acclaimed as being among the most attractive in the
world, their fine sands flanked by 200m (650feet) tall limestone outcrops. back
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There are a number of interesting island
tours you can book from Krabi. One of the most popular is Lanta Island in the
south of the province. You can reach this beautiful but isolated island by taking
a three hour boat ride from Krabi town. The island is famous with travelers who
come for relaxation and privacy on one of the 19 beaches that flank the west coast
of the island. Most accommodations are simple beach bungalows. Many choose a day-trip
to Poda Island 6km (4miles) offshore from Ao Nang. Poda is a windswept sandy island
with one or two food shacks and superb clear waters for swimming and snorkeling.
Air conditioned buses bound for Krabi leave the Phuket
public bus station throughout the day for the 3 ½ hour ride. Renting a taxi is
more comfortable and renting one from Patong or Phuket town will cost about 1,700
baht. You can travel to Krabi by boat sailing by way of
Phi Phi Island. It will take all day, but the scenery of the inner Andaman Sea
is magnificent, and weather permitting a very pleasant way to spend a day. In
Phuket, Songserm Travel Tel: 222-570/4 has a boat that leaves at 9am from Ao Makham
Bay for Phi Phi. After lunch on Phi Phi, catch the afternoon public boat to Krabi
at 1pm. From November to April the Ao Nang Princess cruiser leaves Phi Phi at
3pm, arriving at Ao Nang and Railae beaches 90 minutes later. back
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